When I installed my new engine I had the forethought to replace my control arm bushings, so this writeup will not include bushing replacement.
First remove the brake caliper and rotor.
Then disconnect the tie rod.
Remove the balljoint pinch bolt and disconnect the balljoint.
Remove the hub nut and 3 bolts that hold the hub to the knuckle and remove the hub. This hub split and was rather stubborn.
Remove the strut and knuckle assembly. Remove the seal from the bore in the knuckle and thoroughly clean the knuckle bore removing all rust, grease and scale.
This is the new hub compared to the old. Pretty!
Now it’s time to install the hub in the knuckle. Grease the hub bore and seal. Then tap the seal in and set it with a properly sized seal driver or, as I did, use a pvc coupler.
Remove the old axle assembly. Be careful prying between the transaxle case and the axle’s tripot housing, some areas of the transaxle case are thin. The axle is retained by a c-clip on the axle shaft, it will release easier if you can give it a sharp pop, as opposed to a steady prying.
Stuff a clean shop towel in the axle hole.
Grind flush the rivets holding the lower ball joint.
Bolt in the new one.
Remove the old tie rod assembly.
Use the old tie rod assembly to aproximate the proper length of the new one so that you’ll be able to drive it to an alignment shop later. Bolt the new tie rod in place.
Remove the axle seal in the transmission. The passenger side axle is male, and the driver’s side is female, so it’s stub shaft makes the seal difficult to remove.
Prepare the new axle for installation.
Install the new axle, this may require using a large screwdriver in the groove in the tripot housing and a dead blow hammer to pop it in.
Reinstall the strut/knuckle assembly. Reattach the tierod end and balljoint. Install a new axle nut.
Now reinstall the brake rotors, the brake calipers and wheels.
Drive the vehicle straight to wherever you’re getting an alignment.